Formidable surge of surf pounded the West Coast and Hawaiian beaches on Thursday, propelled by a robust swell originating from the turbulent Pacific Ocean. The impact led to localized flooding in certain areas.
As the waves crashed ashore, forecasters issued warnings advising people to steer clear of rocky outcrops and jetties. Additionally, they urged individuals to remain vigilant, cautioning against turning away from the ocean due to the potential threat of “sneaker waves.” These sporadic and notably larger waves have the capability to surge far onto the sand, posing risks of sweeping individuals off beaches.
The National Weather Service delineated a high surf warning for portions of Northern California, specifying wave heights ranging from 28 to 33 feet (8.5 to 10 meters) and reaching up to 40 feet (12 meters) at select locations. Reports emerged of flooding in low-lying coastal regions.
In Aptos, situated on the north end of Monterey Bay, the overpowering surf breached the beach, inundating a nearby parking lot and leaving debris scattered in its wake. Consequently, Santa Cruz County issued advisories, prompting residents in several coastal areas to prepare for potential evacuations.
Eve Krammer, a long-time Aptos resident, remarked, “Mother Nature’s angry. I mean these waves are gnarly. They’re huge.”
Jeff Howard, another resident of Aptos, empathized with those residing in vulnerable areas. “I feel for the people that are down low here,” he expressed.
While the Southern California waves were slightly less colossal, they were still deemed hazardous, characterized by life-threatening rip currents. Nevertheless, surfers found the allure irresistible.
For 27-year-old Alex Buford, patience was key as he navigated the waves just north of Manhattan Beach along the Los Angeles County coast. “I was waiting for a while because the waves were really sick, and they’re kinda hard to get into even though I have a really big board,” he explained. “Just waited for a good one and I got it, and it was a long one. Pretty big. It was sick.”
Meanwhile, in Hawaii, the weather service predicted surf heights escalating to 30 to 40 feet (9 to 12 meters) along north-facing shores and 18 to 22 feet (5.5 to 6.7 meters) along west-facing shores across five islands.
Professional Hawaii surfer Sheldon Paishon readied himself for a morning surf session at Makaha, a renowned surfing beach on Oahu’s west side. Taking advantage of this week’s high surf warning, Paishon, 30, has been exploring various surf spots around Oahu.
“It’s always big waves in the winter time in Hawaii,” Paishon remarked, cautioning novice surfers to consult lifeguards before venturing into the water and to ensure they have adequate support and safety measures in place.
Honolulu Ocean Safety lifeguards stationed across Oahu reported rescuing 20 individuals along the island’s famed North Shore on Wednesday, according to spokesperson Shayne Enright. In addition to these rescues, lifeguards conducted thousands of “preventative actions.”
“This time of year produces incredible surf but it can also be very dangerous,” Enright warned.
The hazardous surf conditions could potentially lead to surges impacting coastal properties and roadways, the weather service cautioned.
